Back Trekking (14 June)

Life isn't about finding yourself.  Life is about creating yourself.  ~George Bernard Shaw
 

Mysterious yak head below the Gurchung Gompa bridge

It's bed tea at 8:00, wash water at 8:30, and breakfast at 9:00. To adjust for our alternate pass crossing (the Sha-shing pass), today we’ve got to back track (back trek) to a point before the Nam-tso southernmost head washing point to access a different valley that will lead to our new crossing of the imposing mountain range on our right flank.  We pack before breakfast and wait for the camp crew to break camp, before setting out first on wheels, then on foot. 

Lunch on the move

At about noon, the vehicles (we in the Toyota Land Cruiser and camp crew in utility truck) stop for a quick lunch before parting ways (we on foot again) along the mountain drainages in search of our new valley pointing us toward the Sha-shing pass. There are lots of water crossings (one where our Tibetan guide actually constructs an impromptu rock step to help me span a giant first step). 

Flat walking (wow!)

Water crossings get serious

After about two hours of walking, the clouds that have been following us all morning arrive with a gust of wind and the delivery of icy rain and sleet.  Luckily our yak men (and yaks) have caught up with us at this point and after a quick conversation (theirs) with a local herder, we are invited into the herder’s hut to wait out the worst of the storm.  Nordrum (the hut owner) spoke no English; however kindly hosted our pause with amused curiosity.  The hut was one room (we were too polite to take photos) that served as his kitchen, bedroom and storage area.  It was living distilled to all that was necessary for the inhabitant -- calming in its simplicity, comforting in its absolute utility.

Camp Six

The view from our tent (Nam-tso on the horizon)

We closed on our campsite rather early -- chilled and damp from the intermittent rain and cool winds that followed us the entire route.  There are still lots of questions about what happens next.  Relaxing into the unknown is my focus.  Camp Six is situated within a web of braided streams, and provides stunning views of the mountains behind us and Nam-tso from the front of our tent (15,700 feet).