Against the Wind

Against the wind
I'm still runnin' against the wind
I'm older now but still runnin' against the wind
Well I'm older now and still runnin'
Against the wind 
~Bob Seeger 

Day Seven, Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes: 14.5 miles   

Someday we'll tell our grand nieces and nephews about the time we had to walk up hill, against the wind, in the driving rain to get from Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes along the Pennine Way.

OK, so hands down, day seven presented the most challenging weather so far.  Rain (not a drizzle, not light). Wind. Cold.  What was meant to be an easy day's ridge-line walk with fabulous views was a little tougher than advertised thanks to the weather (and in lousy weather views  = exposure). 

We surely think we earned our Pennine Way boots today and we marked the 100+ mile mark of walking (1/3 way through!).

And it was yet another no-camera day due to weather.  So let me regale you with some (no-so-dry) trail humor from a day of crazy-weather walking:

• Crazy Weather Fact #1: There is NO SUCH THING as a truly waterproof boot.  Keeping one's feet dry matters . . . until they are not.  At that point, dodging trail steams and puddling is completely futile.  Wet is wet.
• Crazy Weather Fact #2: It is possible that no matter the direction in which one may be walking, the wind will be coming from the front.
• Crazy Weather Fact #3: There is an embarrassing point of exposure to cold, wet and wind when one's hands become so numb that a personal relief break becomes a timed-test of loosening one's many layers.
• Crazy Weather Fact #4: (Completely unrelated to Fact #3) -- The likelihood of dehydration is greater on inclement weather days.  Water consumption is directly the inverse of water saturation.  
• Crazy Weather Fact #5: Rain needles exist as a little-known form of precipitation created in 30-40 MPH wind gusts. 

Over the 14.5 miles today we sang together (to test mental clarity), we laughed, we stumbled, we huddled and we drove on -- and yes, when we could we ran against the wind to get out of the wet and cold and to Cocketts Inn (circa 1668) in Hawes (home of the Wensleydale Creamery for all you Wallace and Grommet fans).  More from Hawes soon.

Out of Our Boots

Day Eight: Rest Day in Hawes (Yorkshire): 0 miles

Ah, the indulgences of a rest day:

• Sleeping in
• Drinking as much coffee as we like at breakfast 
• Wearing only approach shoes
• Staying out of the rain, wind and cold
• Sitting down to eat lunch
• Having a snack that isn't an energy bar
• Washing our socks
• Access to good wifi
• Watching a silly British game show on the BBC
• Afternoon tea
• Enjoying the local sights . . .
• Macaroni and CHEESE (what else) for lunch at Wensleydale Creamery  
• Picking two new handmade dog leads at the ropemakers (coolest trade) in Hawes
• Two fabulous dinners at Cocketts Inn

Under threatening skies, but off the trail

No energy bars here

Typical Hawes lane

Tea with Wallace and Grommet at the Wensleydale Creamery

And of course, drinking something besides water . . .

• 
  

We're back on the trail tomorrow.  Twelve miles to Keld -- crossroads for the Coast-to-Coast and the Pennine Way.  Send best energy for sunny skies!

Who'll Stop the Rain?

Day Six: Malham to Horton in Ribblesdale, 14.5 miles

Long as I remember the rain been coming down
Clouds of myst'ry pouring confusion on the ground
Good men through the ages, trying to find the sun
And I wonder, still I wonder, who'll stop the rain?
~Credence Clearwater Revival

So, seriously, it still is raining along the Pennine Way.  Today, we didn't even take our cameras out of our packs.  We set out from Malham in a drizzle that turned to light rain as we tread the 400 stone steps to reach the top of Malham Cove, a majestic natural limestone amphitheater.  Thank goodness someone else got a good shot on a sunny day, so you can see the Cove in all its grandeur (and so can we ;-).

The experience along the top of the Cove was a combination of navigation and balance beam workout as we maneuvered along the slick channeled limestone before setting off to the two tough climbs today: Fountain Fell and the infamous Pen-y-Ghent (the lowest of the three peaks of Yorkshire -- site of many running, walking and cyclo-cross events).

It was a fast-walking day (due to weather) during which we ate lunch on the route (while walking that is).  The idea of standing and eating a sandwich in the cold and the rain is incredibly unappealing.  The highlight of the day was watching two modern day sheep herders on ATVs with their clever working dogs riding on platforms just behind them.  At regular intervals the shepherds drove wide patterns and directed their dogs off the platforms to channel virtual rivers (all my imagery is watery right now) of sheep through narrow cuts in the stone walls.  It was fascinating -- and had our hands been working properly (not frozen from the wet and the cold), we may have attempted a video.  For now, you'll have to simply imagine the scene of ATV's buzzing along rolling boggy terrain up and down the ridges, dogs balancing like pros atop their motorized surfboards, then outrunning the ATVs at times once on the ground.  We've decided we may like to be proper English sheep farmers just so that we too can have really cool surfboarding dogs.

For the last challenge of the day, the walk up Pen-y-Ghent, (thanks to being earlier in the day) was clear, but very windy.  With winds gusting at 40+ MPH it was more than once that I found myself clinging to the slippery stone path in pockets to keep from being blown off the side of the mountain (ok, this is no doubt an exaggeration on my part -- but it was a bit harrowing).  When we reached the summit at 2,277 feet, we scooted straight across the peak to begin our long descent as the mist swirled in to cover the top of the mountain.

We reached the village, Horton in Ribblesdale, by 3:15 in the afternoon (a 6.25 hour day) -- glad to take hot showers and get dry!

Again, a photo shot by someone who saw the feature (Pen-y-Ghent) in the sunshine.

Horton in Ribblesdale -- a small and quirky village that seems to thrive on the attraction of the Three Peaks.

Good Day Sunshine

Day Five, Cowling to Malham: 17.5 miles

Finally, a sunny day.

Today was a lovely track marking our gradual transition out of the southern Pennines and heading into the Yorkshire Dales National Park.  Temps warmed and the sun shone as we tromped through fields (where I got chased by a very pregnant cow) and moseyed along the canal and rivers that criss-cross this part of the country.  The route from Cowling to Gargrave was a roller coaster of ups and downs.  After Gargrave, it was easy walking for the last six miles of the day.  Best of all: the sunshine 😎😎 -- everything looks better in the summer light!

Marty and Cliff on the ascent up Cowling Hill

Cliff at the Pinshaw Beacon

Sheep Grazing in the Morning Sun

Collecting Buttercups on my Boot (without even trying)

A Happy English Quartet along the Leeds to London Canal

Narrow Boats on the Leeds to London Canal

Cows on Cowling (Hill, that is)

Lodging at Cowling: The Woodland House***.5.  Fine establishment run by two former long-distance hikers' in their retirement.  Nothing notable -- no major detraction.

Moor, Moor, Moor

. . . how do you like it?

Day Four: Hebden Bridge to Cowling, 17 miles

A break in the rain

Today’s terrain was as varied as yesterday’s was unchanging.  Since we descended deep into the Hebden Valley at the end of the day yesterday, a goodly share of our morning was spent climbing our way up and out of the “hole.”  Through the rain and surprising cold, we twisted our way around reservoirs and winded through moor after moor after moor.  We were down valleys, through cloughs, up fells and across seemingly endless (windswept) moors.   Today we also passed through Withins Heights and briefly visited the ruins of the house which is believed to have inspired the Earnshaw Family home in Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights.  Believe us, the midst across the moors easily summons images of Heathcliffe and Catherine.  Moor, moor, moor!

Across all 17 miles today our pace was strong and steady despite the terrain, prompting Marty to characterize the walk as “Boltz Boot Camp.”  And while we can’t take credit for the weather or terrain obstacles, already each of us is experiencing the conditioning effect of walking – becoming stronger as we struggle through the minor aches and pains of each full-on walking day.  These aches and pains, by the way, feel anything but minor late each afternoon.  Thankfully, we wake refreshed and ready to go again each morning!  We live by an unspoken no-excuses, no complaints trail philosophy that is all about putting one step in front of the other (even when engaging nettles on a “personal relief” break – well, that certainly takes one's mind off of other pains for awhile😮).

As it was another rainy day, photos were few.  Tomorrow has some sun in the forecast -- finger crossed.  As we have come to expect, the sun made an appearance late in the day as we approached Cowling.  Cameras out!!

Foxglove are everywhere!

Once again, the sun comes out for the last 15 minutes of a nine-hour hiking day

Who's cairn now?

Day Three: Standedge to Hebden Bridge 17 miles

The day started out with a farewell to our hiking companions from Hannover, Axel and Bettina Boltz.  Try as we might to get them to play hooky from work and continue on with us for the next 240+ miles, they left us right after breakfast with wishes of sunny days and easy trails ahead.  We miss you guys already!!

Best thing about today: it was the least rainy day we’ve had.  When all you’ve experienced is midst, rain and wind – less precipitation is good (really good).   As far as routes go, it was pretty tame overall.  We started and stayed on fairly level terrain.  Of course that last hill down into Hebden Bridge was a knee cruncher (just ask Marty).  No big route highlights today, which caused me to think about the many cairns we pass along the way.

I love the idea of cairns as they are constructed by walkers for walkers.  Never meant to direct the route, rather they are confirmation by friendly compatriots who passed before us.  The walking community is pretty cool – easy to greet, garrulous in chatter, curious and glad to share tips or route advice.  So how much does community figure into why some people choose take on long distance walks or trekking?  Marty says he’s here for the community – for the opportunity for the three of us to walk together again in Europe (we’ve walked together before on the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, and across munros in the Scottish Highlands).  It’s fascinating the depth of friendship that grows out of trekking together.  The topics of our conversations are far-ranging – from the mundane to the outrageous and from the politics to family (and how DO we always end up back at politics no matter what?).

We agree that we seem to know one another better in many cases than we do people we see most everyday (although we see one another only every year or two).  You see, at the end of the day, there’s nothing casual about long-distance trekking pals.  Although we spread out along the path each day, we make sure never to lose sight of one another – and when we walk together we pass the time talking.  Recent topics of conversation: the need for civil discourse, Donna Summers, the musical Hamilton, The X-Files, dogs (a recurring theme), religion (yes, normally taboo, but not when walking together for 8-10 hours day), Diane Fossey and Diane Von Furstenburg (I kid you not), GPSs, rain gear, boots and blisters – you get the idea. Like the cairn, trail talk is confirming and never directive.  It’s almost a reason in itself to take on the long-distance walk.  It’s finding one’s tribe.  And of course . . . some people walk for the solitude 😉😎.   Just not us, not now anyway.

Wearing all my cold weather gear to stay warm on Stoodley Pike (mittens in pockets).

Lodging in Hebden Bridge: Riverview B&B ***** (the first five star of the trip).  The proprietress met us upon arrival, gave us a dinner recommendation and made our reservation then served a delicious early breakfast.  And of course, the three of us fell in love with her 10-month old Border-Poo (Half Border Collie, half poodle), Eddi!

The Ten Percent Day

Day Two: Torside to Standedge, 12 miles 

For some reason, we all agreed the second day felt a little more demanding than the first.  The weather was not much (ok, not at all) improved.  A rocky ascent started the day, then directed us along the cliffy ledge of Laddow Rocks, where the sharp drop to our right kept us snugged to the left of the trail (making for some tired knees and feet).  

Cliff, Bettina, Axel, Nigel and Marty

The blogger, Bettina, Axel, Nigel and Marty

As we bopped along in full rain gear, Nigel from Day One joined us again, serving as our ad hoc Pennine Way guide (even photo bombing our group photo). 

 

Happy the wind and rain were at out backs, we hustled across the bog on flagstones (actually recycled from old mills in the Lancashire area and air-dropped in for hand-placement to save the peat bogs the 1990s) on the moors toward Torside.  Despite the many flagstones across the bog, I managed to sink up to my right calf in the muck today.  Not to be outdone, Marty decided to throw in a two-step over a stream crossing and plunged his left boot in the icy water.  The resulting step-squish, step-squish rhythm kept us company for the rest of the day.

Throughout the moors, it is a delight to spy the grouse hens busily orchestrating the movement of their spring chicks across the trails to safe cover under the bog cotton, heather and bilberry.  The hen pops up to oversee a flurry of feathery chick movement, then ducks and runs, only to reappear and direct the next movement of her brood; all the while casting a suspicious eye toward our plodding procession across the stones.  Come autumn, the moors will be a carpet of purple heather and these awkward little chicks will be young birds using all their training and finesse to survive their first birding season (a rich man’s game generally despised by the strict environmentalists of the country as Nigel explained).

The continued inclement weather limited photos today.  Suffice to say we are happy, healthy and were glad to find the Carriage House in Standedge at the end of the day. 

Most important: with 27 miles underfoot, we are now 10% complete on our trek!

Rating notes: Lodging and meals in Standedge: The Carriage House** Newly renovated rooms a plus – helped to make up for their initial pronouncement that Cliff and I didn’t have rooms for the night.! Surprisingly good Turkish fare in the restaurant. 

And So It Begins

Finally we are in country and walking the Pennine Way.  A couple of administrative notes: First, I can only post to the blog when wifi is available.  The first two lodgings on the Way did not have wifi, hence the initial silence.  Second, I try to complete the blog at the end of each walking day -- which means I'm not only very tired, but likely a cider or two underway -- both explanations for some occasionally sloppy grammar and/or typos.  For these, I humbly beg your grace and forgiveness . . .

Day One: Edale to Torside, 15 miles.

Inspired by Snoopy . . . 

As we marched along through the mist, fog and rain for most of our 15-mile route today, my mind kept flashing to Charles’ Schultz’s Snoopy typing way atop his doghouse, “It was a dark and stormy night . . ..”   Though not particularly dark, the persistent mist-to-drizzle-to-rain gloom that restricted our views etched a mesmeric rejoinder in my brain . . . "It was a bleak and stormy day . . .."

Bettina, Cliff, Marty and Axel

However, the company being nothing like the weather, the day swept by with good cheer and  optimism.  These are my dream hiking partners: determined, pragmatic about things like weather and stony paths, engaging, encouraging and kind. 

On top of that, the English hikers who joined us for short distances today were similarly disposed.  First there was Gary who walked with us through the rainy and misty moorlands.  He was on a personal pilgrimage for MS (he is the caretaker of his wife stricken with the disease); and is walking on his caretaker break to raise awareness and money for the cause.  Towards the end of the day we met Nigel an engaging, long-legged, British sexagenarian, who told us he is walking the route for his seventh time (four of  his last six journeys having been completed successfully).  His motivation is his 77 year-old walking buddy from his hometown of York, Engand.  Then there was the twosome who ran by us on the moors (perhaps training for the Ben Nevis Run) and the dad and son who trod by our lunch spot as we stood huddled against the stiff, chill winds just below Bleaklow.  

. . . and as on the coast-to-coast all along the way were the ubiquitous sheep – and their adorable spring lambs.

All in all, the easy companionship, chatter and bleating sheep seemed to contribute to the first day seeming to us much easier than advertised.  The dreaded Jacob’s Ladder was less demanding than any gym-day on the Stairmaster – and given the weather, the view was no more distracting.   The picture of Marty and Cliff ascending the ladder (and climbing into the clouds) around 10:00 a.m. was also the last time we saw anything that looked like blue sky for the next five hours.   

Up, up on Jacob's Ladder

Miles of stone slab (going on forever as Bettina observed) saved us from the fabled bogs (apparently unavoidable until the late 1990s).  And when the route, overall well marked, became impossible to navigate using a map and terrain association by 10:30, we resorted to the GPS for route confirmation as we disappeared into the mist and drizzle and rain, across the windswept moors of the Dark Peak of Peak District National Park -- at the bleak and stormy start of our Pennine Way Adventure.

Cliff, Axel, Bettina and Marty at the Trail's Start in Edale

Lodging and meals in Edale – Rambler Inn **** (fabulous customer service)

Lodging in Torside: Old House B&B ** (a little to focused on the bottom line)

Meal in Torside: Peels Arms**** (great service, darned good food)

Walking the Pennine Way 2017

At a distance of about 270 miles along the "spine" of England, this year's hike, the Pennine Way (PW), is considered the toughest of England's National Trails.  Envisioned in the 1930s as England's version of the US Appalachian Trail, the PW opened officially in 1965.  The trail traverses three National Parks (Peak District, Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland).  It also guides walkers through the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (a no-kidding, true designation; how very British as Bill Bryson no doubt would observe 😏) -- among the most wild and bleak of moorland areas in the country.  The trail then follows (and ultimately crosses) Hadrian's Wall before moving into the Cheviot Hills straddling the border into Scotland.

On 22 June we'll step onto the trail in Edale, England, which is located some 170 miles northeast of London (in the country's "Peak District") and proceed in the next 20 days over hill (fell) and dale (36,700 cumulative feet of ascent) to terminate on 11 July, in Kirk Yetholm, Scotland.

Along the way we'll take two rest days to wash socks and explore a couple of local villages.  For those of you wondering: We'll average 15 miles/day over 18 hiking days.  Yes, we've trained . . . AND we know from experience that the training and conditioning continue along the trail (quite literally each step of the way).  As always, we are filled with gratitude that we can embark upon this adventure both curious and determined.  On this trip we are particularly grateful to be joined for the duration by veteran trekking companion, Marty Howard from Pasadena, CA; and by Cliff's cousin and cousin's wife, Axel and Bettina Boltz, who will join us (from Hannover, Germany) for the first two hiking days.

Our journey is a B&B-to-B&B supported hike (designed by Contours, out of England).  Meaning that whilst (practicing my Queen's English 😄) the bulk of our gear will be transported between lodgings  -- we'll walk carrying day packs (contents to be detailed later) and navigate the route on our own (maps marked, GPS loaded with waypoints, compass at the ready).

As always, this will be no-holds-barred chronicle; guaranteed to report the good, the bad and the ugly of our long-distance trekking experiences.

Note: These first couple of blog posts covering some admin and logistics really allow me to become reacquainted with all the idiosyncrasies of blogging.  The blog goes "live in country" on 21 or 22 June.

See you on the Way (the Pennine Way, that is)!

Blog practice at sunset from our west-facing portal in Santa Fe, NM