And So It Begins

Finally we are in country and walking the Pennine Way.  A couple of administrative notes: First, I can only post to the blog when wifi is available.  The first two lodgings on the Way did not have wifi, hence the initial silence.  Second, I try to complete the blog at the end of each walking day -- which means I'm not only very tired, but likely a cider or two underway -- both explanations for some occasionally sloppy grammar and/or typos.  For these, I humbly beg your grace and forgiveness . . .

Day One: Edale to Torside, 15 miles.

Inspired by Snoopy . . . 

As we marched along through the mist, fog and rain for most of our 15-mile route today, my mind kept flashing to Charles’ Schultz’s Snoopy typing way atop his doghouse, “It was a dark and stormy night . . ..”   Though not particularly dark, the persistent mist-to-drizzle-to-rain gloom that restricted our views etched a mesmeric rejoinder in my brain . . . "It was a bleak and stormy day . . .."

Bettina, Cliff, Marty and Axel

However, the company being nothing like the weather, the day swept by with good cheer and  optimism.  These are my dream hiking partners: determined, pragmatic about things like weather and stony paths, engaging, encouraging and kind. 

On top of that, the English hikers who joined us for short distances today were similarly disposed.  First there was Gary who walked with us through the rainy and misty moorlands.  He was on a personal pilgrimage for MS (he is the caretaker of his wife stricken with the disease); and is walking on his caretaker break to raise awareness and money for the cause.  Towards the end of the day we met Nigel an engaging, long-legged, British sexagenarian, who told us he is walking the route for his seventh time (four of  his last six journeys having been completed successfully).  His motivation is his 77 year-old walking buddy from his hometown of York, Engand.  Then there was the twosome who ran by us on the moors (perhaps training for the Ben Nevis Run) and the dad and son who trod by our lunch spot as we stood huddled against the stiff, chill winds just below Bleaklow.  

. . . and as on the coast-to-coast all along the way were the ubiquitous sheep – and their adorable spring lambs.

All in all, the easy companionship, chatter and bleating sheep seemed to contribute to the first day seeming to us much easier than advertised.  The dreaded Jacob’s Ladder was less demanding than any gym-day on the Stairmaster – and given the weather, the view was no more distracting.   The picture of Marty and Cliff ascending the ladder (and climbing into the clouds) around 10:00 a.m. was also the last time we saw anything that looked like blue sky for the next five hours.   

Up, up on Jacob's Ladder

Miles of stone slab (going on forever as Bettina observed) saved us from the fabled bogs (apparently unavoidable until the late 1990s).  And when the route, overall well marked, became impossible to navigate using a map and terrain association by 10:30, we resorted to the GPS for route confirmation as we disappeared into the mist and drizzle and rain, across the windswept moors of the Dark Peak of Peak District National Park -- at the bleak and stormy start of our Pennine Way Adventure.

Cliff, Axel, Bettina and Marty at the Trail's Start in Edale

Lodging and meals in Edale – Rambler Inn **** (fabulous customer service)

Lodging in Torside: Old House B&B ** (a little to focused on the bottom line)

Meal in Torside: Peels Arms**** (great service, darned good food)