Replenshing in Ragusa Ibla

Macco di Favi

Hot showers and steaming bowls of macco di favi* (a delicious soup of pureed fava beans, basil and grated pecorino cheese) last evening helped us to thaw out from the long cold day's ride to Ragusa.  *If you've never tried macco di favi, and think Hannibal Lechter forever has turned you off to fava beans, this delectable soup may be just the thing to bring you back to the humble legume.  The combination (showers and soup) certainly worked to revive us for a day of exploring Ragus Ibla and for a ride to Modica to sample the renowned (and truly distinctive and delicious Modica chocolate).

San Giorgo Cathedral

First a word or two about Ragusa:  Another UNESCO World Heritage site -- Ragusa itself is a beautiful Baroque city built just above the old town site (Ragusa Ibla).  Ragusa was built on a high plateau above the ancient city mostly to suit the needs of the landed gentry (1700's) -- while the Ibla continued to sustain the way of life for the feudal nobles.  Our lodging was in Ragusa Ibla; and so, where we mostly explored and dined.  Like every Baroque city in this realm, Ragusa Ibla is built around its churches, the largest of which is the Cathedral of San Giorgio. San Giorgio commands the piazza of Ragusa Ibla with majestic stairs (oddly fenced off from entry) leading into a Baroque church with a beautiful duomo, amazing artworks and high in an alcove, a most impressive pipe organ -- the sounds of which we were blessed to overhear during a private tour for, we guessed a visiting musician.

If ever a sign said it all . . .

All along the piazza we found quaint shops and cafes -- with what I thought were some of the most creative and captivating signs.  We know we are lucky to be visiting Sicily early in the season as we experience no crowds and are taking photographs uninterrupted by all but the city's inhabitants.  It's really quite a magical time.

Just before noon, we settled back into our bike saddles under clear skies and set out to Modica (only about 12 miles away).  After yesterday, the idea of a shorter ride under clear skies is quite appealing -- except that 6 km switchback we cruised down yesterday (albeit in the wet and cold). We now must grind our way back up . . ..

Looking at Modica Alta from Modica Bassa

Arriving on the outskirts of Modica (Alta), it takes us another 20 minutes of winding through narrow cobble-stoned streets to reach Modica (Bassa).  The heart of the city Modica, yet another UNESCO World Heritage site, rests on the ruins of the ancient civilization of Siculi (inhabited since 212 BC).  Yet, somehow (perhaps sadly for Roman historians), Modica perhaps best is known today for its chocolate.  Modica chocolate, known as "cold chocolate," in that is in processed at lower temperatures than other European chocolates and not conched (that high temperature lustrous folding), leaving the sugar and the cocoa grainy and crumbly.  Both the texture and taste are distinctive -- and it is no mere coincidence that the chocolate is much like the Mexican xocoatl chocolate, since this method for making chocolate was introduced to Sicily by Spanish Conquistadors, who learned the process from the Aztecs!  And how is it?  I imagine chocoholics around the world would have differing opinions.  From someone who usually opts for other than chocolate in the world of sweets, I thought it was spectacular.

San Giorgio organ

Rested and restored after a day of easy biking, good food and exploration, we are fully re-energized and ready to head tomorrow to the rich agricultural region of Siciliy's Anapo Valley.  (Wind warnings ahead . . . ).

Ragusa as viewed from Ragusa Ibla