Days 3 (Ennerdale Bridge to Longstraithe) and 4 Longstraithe to Grasmere) -- both high routes in the Lakes District -- rocky paths with steep ascents and sharp, rocky descents
No posting last night as our B&B in Longstraith had no connectivity (wifi or cellular). Today catches us up in Grasmere.
Today (30 June), like yesterday, required we choose our route: low or high. In both cases we chose the L- L-L- . . . High routes. For anyone considering this trek, we highly recommend the high routes in good weather (clear skies and high ceilings). The views are AMAZING!!
Ennerdale Bridge to Longstraithe: The effort is considerable, though, especially layering high routes over consecutive days. On 29 June we decided on the high route, which added about two hours to our 15.8 mile walk and delivered 5,000 feet ascent and descent. This high route includes the highest point on the C2C (High Stile), and was such a favorite of Wainwright that his ashes are scattered here (the Haystacks). In his famous guide, however, Wainwright described the route as only suitable for "very strong and experienced fellwalkers" (in clear weather). And it was a tough day (seriously I was heard to gasp, "and I thought I was in shape . . . ,"); and particularly windy and cold at the top . . . but totally worth the work. Note to hikers: the route up to Red Pike is steep and poorly marked. I resorted to Stedman's recommendation to progress straight up in the absence of the trail as the lateral routes are dangerous given shale scree and loose rocks.
Today (30 June), like yesterday, required we choose our route: low or high. In both cases we chose the L- L-L- . . . High routes. For anyone considering this trek, we highly recommend the high routes in good weather (clear skies and high ceilings). The views are AMAZING!!
Lake Buttemere from High Stile |
. . . And slow learners we are, today we were up for the high route again. While not half the challenge of yesterday, we seemed to be the only C2Cers on the high route today. Many C2C hikers seem to skip the high route on this leg for speed (headed to Patterdale) or to allow legs to recover from the previous day. Much shorter (just under ten miles), with half the elevation gain (and loss) of the day before, it's a very do-able route. Notably, we met one exceptionally charming septuagenarian chugging up the crags today who, having reported completing the C2C twice, raised an eyebrow at our decision to hit the high routes on the C2C. Perhaps we had that novice look??
At any rate, today we hit Calf, Moment and Helm Crags before make the steep descent into the lovely Lake District resort village of Grasmere for the night. Grasmere is notable as the home of poet William Wordsworth -- Laureate of the Lakes District -- (and for its traditional gingerbread and fine sports drinks 😉, the former of which we've tucked into our packs for a trail snack tomorrow -- alas the rehydration will have to wait until we're off trail for the day!).
Looking down on Grasmere from Helm Crag |
Good news ahead: the sunny warm weather is forecast to hold -- so tomorrow we're heading for Glen Ridding and high route #3 . . .
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