Closing Report -- The Final Two Days in Florence

June 14 & 15, 2016

As I sit at my computer back in PA, slightly jet-lagged, with the final load of post-hike laundry spinning in the clothes dryer, I am reminded again of the phenomenon of a sense of increased velocity as regards the passing of time in relation to one's age.  All that to say: How the heck can it be that the holiday is past?  In the history books, so to speak?

Well, there's actually ample research on just this question . . . and if you read to the end of today's blog, I'll share some of that with you -- but since you're more likely here to read about the end of the trip -- or to check out the photos, here goes:

On Tuesday, 14 June, we narrowed our focus from Tuscany to Florence -- birthplace of the Renaissance, by visiting three specific sites: Galleria dell'Accademia (with its most famous artifact, Michelangelo's David),  Il Duomo di Firenze (Florence Cathedral) and the Uffizi Gallery -- and expanding our exploration of the city in general.  We visited all three sites with local guides.  The best recommendation we can offer from this experience is to get to any of the sites as early in the day as possible.  We were in the second group at both the Accademia and the Duomo and had uninterrupted views to all each site holds.  The Uffizi we hit in the afternoon.  It was crowded and having a guide only frustrated the impact of the mob.  After about 45 minutes we parted ways with our guide and explored on our own (a good decision for us).

When I walked into the room where the original David is on display, I will confess to tearing up.  I

didn't anticipate the overwhelming emotion of seeing this great work.  Imagining a young Michelangelo discovering and revealing Goliath's conqueror in this magnificent single piece of white marble (for me) transcends words.

Brunelleschi's Dome from inside the Cathedral

The Duomo was equally awe inspiring, mostly for the architectural genius of the famous dome.  Still today architects convene to study the work and postulate how Brunelleschi's design was conceived and constructed in 15th Century.  It is truly a wonder.  Again, words (and photos I fear) cannot do it justice.

 The works of the Uffizi are simply too numerous to recount -- and include paintings by Leonardo Da'Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and Raphael.  What most impressed me?  Perhaps the inclusion of sculpture from 5 BC.  All together, these three sites (and Florence in general) express perfectly the Renaissance Movement and great advancements not only in the visual art but also in literature, mathematics, science, music and civilized culture based in curiosity and solution.  I was humbled by the beauty and the brilliance of the great works.

The altar at Santa Croce

Dinner Tuesday night was at Trattoria ZaZa (thanks again, Karen) where the gnocchi was a second to 4 Leoni, but the steak tartar was the best I've ever had!  ZaZa is a bit of an institution is downtown Florence, operating for nearly 40 years, it has an impressive footprint for both in and outdoor dining -- reservations are a must!

And on our last full day in the city, Wednesday, 15 June, we explored on our own beginning with the Santa Croce Basilica where one finds the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo and Machiavelli amidst amazing art and peaceful surrounds (this was one of the least visited sites we explored in the city proper -- and one of the most moving for us).


Not to be missed: At the back of the basilica one can find the Scuola del Cuoio (http://www.scuoladelcuoio.com/scuola-del-cuoio-about-us.html) -- "Scuola del Cuoio was created after World War II through the collaborative efforts of the Franciscan friars of the Monastery of Santa Croce and the Gori and Casini families, Florentine leather artisans since the 1930’s. Their mission was to give orphans of the war a means to learn a practical trade with which to earn a living"  Through agreement with the friars of Santa Croce and the city's leaders -- the school continues today.  The leather products there are beyond compare and guarantee authenticity (if you go to Florence, you may be overwhelmed by the leather vendors -- and it can be difficult to assess quality, value and authenticity).

At Boboli Garden

In the afternoon we headed for the Boboli Gardens south of the River Arno (another property built for the Medici Family).  The gardens are just behind the Pitti Palace, and seemed less well maintained than any other spot we visited in Florence.  The views of Florence from the garden, though, are spectacular.

For us, though, the real find of the day was Fort Belvedere (just continue through the gardens to get to the old fort), where an amazing contemporary art installation, Spiritual Guards by Belgian artist Jan Fabre, lured me into a photo frenzy that drained my camera battery.  I find Fabre's art thoughtful, whimsical, provocative and quite delightfully fascinating (but Cliff will remind you that I loved infinity pools filled with milk as a contemporary art installation in Stockholm years ago . . . ).  I included some snaps below, you can be the judge.

Our final dinner (a final thanks to Karen) was at Mama Gina's south of the Arno.  Here the gnocchi nudged out ZaZa's -- but no one could touch 4 Leoni (our 5-star award goes to 4 Leoni).  And the truth is, we never had a merely passable meal in Florence (or on the trail).  Food is, like art, a passion for the Italians.  If we American's routinely took our ingredient selection, preparation and presentation of food forward with the love and attention the Italians do -- I daresay we'd be a more healthful country.  Why squander a moment or a coin to simply fill one's belly when you can dine?

Now, for the passing of time.  This is such an oft observed phenomenon that it is unsurprising, I think, that there are many reflections and studies around the notion that the older we are, the more quickly time passes.  Here are a few ideas you can throw out the next time someone ponders the question in your presence (source: Scientific American):

1. We gauge time by memorable events.
As William James hypothesized, we may be measuring past intervals of time by the number of events that can be recalled in that period. Imagine a 40-something mom experiencing the repetitive, stressful daily grind work and family life. The abundant memories of her high school years (homecoming football games, prom, first car, first kiss, graduation) may, compared to now, seem like much longer than the mere four years that they were.
2. The amount of time passed relative to one’s age varies.
For a 5-year-old, one year is 20% of their entire life. For a 50-year-old, however, one year is only 2% of their life. This “ratio theory,” proposed by Janet in 1877, suggests that we are constantly comparing time intervals with the total amount of time we’ve already lived.
3. Our biological clock slows as we age.
With aging may come the slowing of some sort of internal pacemaker. Relative to the unstoppable clocks and calendars, external time suddenly appears to pass more quickly.
4. As we age, we pay less attention to time.
When you’re a kid on December 1, you’re faithfully counting down the days until Santa brings your favorite Hot Wheels down the chimney. When you’re an adult on December 1, you’re a little more focused on work, bills, family life, scheduling, deadlines, travel plans, Christmas shopping, and all of that other boring adult stuff. The more attention one focuses on tasks such as these, the less one will notice the passage of time.
5. Stress, stress, and more stress.
As concluded by Wittmann and Lehnhoff (and replicated by Friedman and Janssen), the feeling that there is not enough time to get things done may be reinterpreted as the feeling that time is passing too quickly. Even older individuals (who are, more often than not, retired from work) may continue to feel similarly due to physical handicaps or diminished cognitive ability.

While the feeling may be inescapable, appease yourself by knowing that time is not literally getting faster as you age.

But here's the thing: presence is being in the moment -- this moment -- that is passed before I can finish typing the words.  Travel and hiking in particular demand presence: Attention!  Take Notice!  Be here and aware!  Be mindful and learn!  We walk, because we can, because we are.  Thanks for walking with us again this year.

Next year's June adventure will take us back to England for the 261 miles of the Pennine Way (from south of London into Scotland).  See you then!

Italy stands with the US in mourning the victims of Pulse in Orlando

How I most often saw Cliff over the past two weeks

Touring Tuscany --

June 13, 2016

Sure, the receipt said a twelve hour tour . . . But could that really be?

Well, yes. On Monday morning we met our tour at 8:30 a.m. and returned to Florence at 8:30 p.m.. And it was totally worth it.  We booked the day trip through the online consolidator, ViaTour (definitely worth checking out wherever in the world you are choosing to travel), which assigned us to a company named WalkAbout Florence (also whole heartedly recommend) for the excursion.

The trip took us to Sienna, San Gimignano & Pisa (with a lunch break at a very hip all organic agriturismo farm).  Not usually fans of this sort of mob bus, we decided to take a risk to expand our Tuscan immersion -- in this case, the risk paid off.

So quickly (because the long day had a domino delay effect on blogging) here are our highlights:

Sienna:

Loved the storybook feel of the town overall, the story of the Palio (annual horse race), and the overwhelming beauty of the facade, marble floors and stained glass window of the Duomo.

San Gimignano:

Enjoyed the garden overlooking the city and some of its remaining 14 towers (of what once were more than 70 -- lending to the nickname "Medival Manhattan"). Disappointingly, this charming place seemed to us much to have sold its soul to commercialism.





Pisa:

While the tower of course was a marvel (much more impressive when seeing it in person), the town central was fascinating owing for the most part to a lively population comprised nearly 60% of students at the University of Pisa (founded in 1343).



Finally, for the journal question (complete the phrase) from Monday: If I could write a memoir it would be called Doggedness. 


Posso Fare Uno Foto al Tua Cane? 

Into Firenze -- The Past Meets Presence

June 12, 2016

While our trail today (Sunday's travel journal) drew out the big moment of walking into Florence by way of a long, east-bearing serpentine path, we hit the outskirts of the city before noon.  Almost immediately a certain cool, suave vibe hit the air.  Design stores lined the streets, gelato shops turned in scoop-pocked tubs for ice cream sculpture  even the graffiti, bikes and street signs seemed to announce: This is Florence.  Prepare to be dazzled!

We made our way (albeit rather circuitously) to Hotel Loggiato Dei Serviti to discover our high-ceiling generous rooms in this delightfully gracious historic setting were ready for us to drop our bags for more than one night for the first time since we departed Bologna seven days and about ninety miles ago.  How simple are life's truest gifts?

We spent the afternoon familiarizing a bit with Florence (north and south of the river Arno).  And after assuring we knew our starting points for tours to come (Monday and Tuesday) took a little down time before striking out to eat late for us, but right on the Italian dinner schedule.  Thank you, Karen, for recommending Quattro Leoni. There I truly enjoyed the most magnificent gnocchi of my life -- the most tender, melt in your mouth tiny potato and ricotta pillows of pasta goodness . . ..  This pasta alone could make me wish to be a Florentine!!

The dining was perfect -- setting, service and every delightful bite.  And about the time we were thinking of how good it would feel to stroll the streets on our way back toward the Duomo, thunder rumbled and the skies broke open in an absolute deluge.  After briefly considering a cab (Really? We just walked here from Bologna and now we need a cab?).  We ordered an aperitif and settled in to watch the storm from the comfort of our covered sidewalk table.  Maybe it was the wine, perhaps the aperitif, but in the end as the rain stretched into its second hour, we asked our waiter for plastic bags, covered our cameras, and ran through the deserted streets of Florence like a couple of kids.

And in the oldest of cities, shortly before midnight the past embraced and celebrated the spontaneity of presence -- urging us to run and hoot and giggle through the rain; for this is our moment -- and we may never pass this way again.

Fireworks at 2300, Birds at 0400!

This is just too good not to post!  The video is obscured because it's a 4:00 a.m. shot overlooking Florence from our room in Fiesole. While the city itself rocked past midnight (to include some pretty spectacular fireworks at 11:00 p.m.), the rest of us were "up with the birds!"

If you can, turn up the sound and just listen.  Every morning as we've walked through the Italian Countryside from Bologna toward Florence (and even in Bologna) we've enjoy a similar predawn operetta!

Olmo to Fiesole: The Not-So-Short Short Day

June 11, 2016

It seems to us the walking mileage is adjusted to be a tad shorter each day as we near Florence.  And knowing this, our willingness to explore is expanded to fill more walking hours and take in Italy in great gulps now.

Ginestra with a vineyard background

Thanks to my friend, Malissa, we finally know that the scent that forever will remind us of this walk through the Emilio-Romagna and Tuscan Regions is Ginestra.  A big and heady perfume saturates the air wherever we see these vibrant yellow, sweet pea shaped flowers nestled on their leafless spiney branches.  We often linger where they are to take a photo or two in hopes of provoking the olfactory memory once we're home.

And oh the historical diversions!  Today we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the site where Leonardo da Vinci convinced an assistant to strap on wings and leap from a hilltop -- enabling a flight of some 12 or so meters centuries before the Wright Brothers did their thing at Kittyhawk.  I find it hard to stand on such sites (and there have been many) and not imagine the presence of those who so long ago walked, worked, created and contemplated

Painted between 1500-1510

And then there's simple curiosity:  We explored Fiesola's town center, to include the San Francesco Chapel with its 16th Century paintings, discovered the ever-so-intriguing town cemetery, and tested the local gelato before heading to our lodging (on the edge of town) just before an afternoon shower cooled the afternoon breezes for a clear view of the Duomo from a Fiesole trail.

Florence in the distance

. . . And so what should have been 15k was closer to 19k (to our lingering delight).  A not-so-short short day after all.

From Bruno to Olmo

June 10, 2016

With Firenze (Florence) now in sight (from the terrace of the Dino Hotel in Olmo), we already are getting the sense that the walking soon will be over.  Tomorrow is a relatively short walk to Fiesole, then it's a stone's throw to Florence on Sunday.

Today started with a cool walk through wet and mist cloaked woods that soaked our boots clear through to the socks.  But it was our send off from the Hotel Felicina that perhaps set the tone for the day.  Because if Bruno Ducci (proprietor and chef of the Felicina) hosts the start of one's day, I think only happiness and optimism will follow.

Of all the lodging where we've enjoyed wine, washed clothes in the sink, and stumbled through our broken Italian to get information about where to drop bags and what time meals are served, none bested the hospitality at Bruno's Hotel Felicina.

Bruno was a delight and a character in every sense of the word.  He met us at the front door, and directed around to a quaint patio outfitted with a spigot and brushes to rinse and scrub the mud from our boots before proceeding to our rooms.  Bruno, Puma tennies flashing the way, smiled through gestures and accommodation with bright-eyed enthusiasm.

In the evening he produced one of the most delicious meals of our trip -- and at our urging after dinner showed us the one-man flying machines he builds, tests and sells.  Did I mention Bruno is almost certainly on the high side of 70, and operating his hotel as a fifth generation business venture? Easy to smile, ever helpful (he even repaired Mariane's glasses) and so creative, for me he defines joy and service.

So, yes, we walked through the rain on Friday.  We explored the Convent on Monte Senario and slogged through mud to get to Olmo at the end of an 18k day.  But with Bruno in our rear view mirror, we were boosted by the strength of family,  commitment to expression and optimism he both embraced and shared.

A Tale of Italian Cannibalism and the Modern Day Shephardess

June 9, 2016

On a rainy day, our guidebook warned us first off the steep muddy descent of the Passo Futa.  If a misty day, the instructions further advised, skip the walk entirely and simply join one's luggage in a direct transport to the next village (Piero Sieve).  So off we set in the mist and light rain from Macia, for the Passo (mountain pass) Osteria Bruciatta, our comprise to the warnings.

The Passo Osteria Bruciata has its own notorious claim (completely unrelated to weather) as the sight of an inn said to exist along this Tuscan route (sometime between 1300 -1500) where the inn keeper took to killing lodgers in their sleep.  Beyond stealing the guests' money and belongings, the inn staff is said to habe used the flesh of their victims in meals prepared for other gusts. Whether true, or a Tuscan tall tale, the story is grotesque, and used the the reason for the inn's fiery ending so many years past.

Working map and trail instructions together, the mist was no worthy opponent to our navigation skills, nor did the rain-sodden, rocky trail (up and down) beat our nimble-footed determination to traverse our 21-kilometer walk.  And as the Osteria no longer exists, we walked on with a notice of the place, and no notion that we may be, versus enjoy our dinner tonight.

Our first 15K were spent stepping lightly across rocks and dodging mud puddles, which often spanned the the width of the trail, along woodland tracks.  When we finally cleared the woods, the mist continued to obscure the views, but brought sharply into focus the labor of a modern-day shephard, driving her stock forward from the dry cockpit of her Fiat coupe. Ah, the humble beginnings of formaggio! 

After showers and wine, we now are tempted by the many delicious scents coming from the Tuscan kitchen at the Hotel Felicina (formerly a Medici property).  It's our second night in the Tuscan Region  -- having passed out of the Emilio Romagna yesterday.  And while I already long for the frizzante of the Pignoletto of Emilio-Romagna, we all are ready to try the culinary wonders and fruits of the vine of the Mugello region tonight!

Buon appetito!

Beating The Rain and the Joy of a Fritatta Sandwich

8 June 2016

A short (17k) and vigorous hike today kept us just ahead of looming thunderclouds, which broke into a steady rain just as we hit our agriturismo around 3:00 p.m.

Farewell to Madonna Fornelli

It was another glorious walk -- most of it without the specter of rain, through woodland trails and across open passes; always in view of the highest mountains of the Appenines.  I know both Cliff and I are thankful for our pre-hike training as we both feel strong and quickly recovered at the end of each day despite the demands of the terrain.

If there was a highlight for me today, because it was another truly wonderful day full of beauty and sensory pleasures, it was the frittata sandwich packed into our lunch bags.  Delicious eggy goodness made better with the addition of a young Italian cheese on chewy thick farm bread -- yum.  Silly, maybe, but without revealing my highlight, I asked Cliff and the frittata sandwich also was his highlight.  And why not?   The food in Italy -- even the simplest -- is made with a passion for ingredients and the desire to please the palate.

Tonight a cool evening breeze is drying our sink-washed laundry at a nearby window as I type this quick note knowing there is no internet, and so no posting until tomorrow.  We'll settle in and take advantage of an early night to read and rest-- tomorrow is advanced in our trail notes book as a demanding day.

Buono Notte!

As for the question of the day: Who would you like to be reincarnated as?

For me, in 2016, my answer is Slavomir Rawicz, the man whose memoir is "The Long Walk." Rawicz was the ringleader in the escape of  seven prisoners from a Soviet Labor Camp in Siberia in 1941.  The group traveled thousands of miles out of Siberia, through China, across the Gobi Desert, across the Himalayas (and Tibet) into British India to be free. The strong determination to live free seems such a noble passion to me that I would choose to experience the extreme challenge and horrors of the trip to know the one-mindedness of the pursuit. And for you, who would you like to be reincarnated as?

There Are No Bad Holidays

June 7, 2016

Ah, the holiday . . .

Yesterday evening we four hikers had a full-blown conversation around what constitutes a holiday (relevant to yesterday's journal question).  While the word certainly derives from "Holy Day," the typical European refers to time away (vacation) as "the holiday."  Though last night I deferred to the word's root origin, today I'm updating with the notion of the holiday as a vacation.  And in my mind, there are no bad holidays!  Sure, there are those instances of delayed flights, lost bags, confusing directions and even of testy travel partners . . . And in my mind, what good challenges to experience! Each of these (and all of their expansions and permutations) mean we have the opportunity or occasion to get away from it all and take holiday.  

Today's trail was all about getting away from it all.  Originating out of a bed & breakfast housed in 18th century buildings and run by a former fashion-industry maven (born and raised in Bologna) we started our walk uphill (again) working off last night's polenta (with cheese and ham), tagliatelle verde primi, brandy soaked tenderloin secondi and panna cotta dessert.

Our walk this morning  initially was along a ridge overlooking the Sasso Marconi of the Emilio Romagna region, revealing farming communities nestled in quiet valleys separated by plowed fields, rocky roads and lightly forested belts of land.  As we emerged from our ridge line walk we passed small farms, grand villas perched to command the best of views, apiaries buzzing with bees and funky bed and breakfasts with yards of dogs -- and the occasional chicken coop or rabbit warren.  All pleasant visual diversions for our sweaty presence.

My favorite part of today was the tiny hamlet of Cocci -- really just a small cluster of buildings and a church.  The rustic appearance screamed, "This is not of your world.  You get to see this because you choose to get away -- and you choose to do so by walking."

This is my bliss.  The rhythm of the trail.  The heart-pumping ascents and the leg stretching down hills.  The pleasure of spending ALL of one's days out of doors.  The joy of new sights and the unanswered question of the road. This 24 km stretch had it all.  And it was all good.  After all, we are on holiday!

Porticos and A River Path

June 6, 2016

Cliff opened the window to our room in Bologna to rumbling thunder and a steady rain at 5:30 in the morning and memories of Scotland 2015 flashed through my mind.  Not to worry though, by the time we finished breakfast, dropped our proceed bags off in the lobby of the Hotel Porto San Mamolo and shouldered our backpacks the sun was beating back the clouds for what would be a clear and sunny 12-mile hike with a altimetric profile shaped like a skate board trick ramp.

Our first steady climb (~1500 feet) took us through the 666 porticos of the covered passage from downtown Bologna to the Basilica Santa Luca high above the city.  All along the way were plaques recognizing the Italian benefactors who made possible the marvelous course of covered stairs and terrazzo floors that connect the city to the basilica, which dates back to the 1100's.  The ascent took a little less than an hour -- and Cliff and I agreed it would be a must-do add to our workouts if we lived in Bologna!

Out of the city and through a local park, we found ourselves walking along the Reno River on a wooded path that had enough mud to make us thankful we weren't walking in the rainy season -- when the path no doubt turns into a small stream running parallel to the Reno.  The path made for a long and sweaty slog (humidity was rising) until we popped out of the woods just at a small damn across the Reno.  Having found  perfect place for a picnic lunch we veered off the trail, found a flat rock on which to cut our pradano, salami, apples and bread, poured wine and toasted the pleasures of great weather, great food and drink and great friends.

On a solid pace in spite of our many photo pauses (and lunch break), we were at the pick up point (our hotelier collected us this evening) two hours early.  A quick call brought round a car -- whisking us off to clean the dust (and mud) off before dinner.

Ah and dinner . . . Must be noted.  The five (count 'me, five) courses each were delicious and distinctive.  Thank goodness this is a walking vacation!

Journal question: best holiday last year?  For me, St Paddy's Day in Santa Fe.  And you?

Finding the Unexpected

June 5, 2016

After spending yesterday exploring Bologna, the four of us decided to explore one of the local trails on the outskirts of the city -- joining in the process many Italians on their Sunday walks.  Dave selected a 15k out & back trail that took us up, up, beyond the city streets along fragrant trails on a perfectly warm and sunny Italian morning.  It's an interesting observation how lovely Bologna smells.  And while the smell of Italian cooking certainly enhances the atmosphere, more than that it is the honeysuckle, rose, fig, olive and many flowering plants (both cultivated and wild) that create the lovely perfumed air of the city.

The romantic ambience further is promoted by street musicians, cuddling couples, happy dogs (and there are many in all shapes and sizes), sidewalk cafes and the art that seems to grace every door, portico, window and roof.  

We've had two days to explore the city, and still it is with a certain wistfulness that we'll walk out tomorrow.  Bologna, I think, has surprised us with a with its quaint and open hearted feel.   

And our closing thought: an Italian observation of US politics (seen on a car parked along the trail today).  No commentary here, just an unexpected sighting. 

There's no O-S-C-A-R in this B-O-L-O-G-N-A!

June 4, 2016

Bologna: The learned city (claims the world's oldest University), the red city (for the terracotta tile roofs), the Pig city (for her adoration of the bountiful swine and all its fine cuts (think prosciutto, mortadella and salami)) and "la grassa/the fat one" (for the food, food, food -- and did I mention the wine?).  One thing it's not is uniformly prepared, packaged and presented.  Nope, no O-S-C-A-R in this Bologna.

Today we walked, ate, walked, ate, walked, ate and walked some more -- discovering the city with great sensual pleasure.

Red roofs of Bologna from tower

We walked up and down city streets and sidewalks, up and down the 76 meters of one of the city's 123 towers.  We walked with a food tour to discover the city's official chocolatier, the city's finest purveyors of wine, cheese, meats and producers of pastas and breads.  We walked before breakfast and after dinner and for hours in between.  We walked through the sunshine and the rain.  And this we know for sure: Bologna is suited to excite and satisfy the eye, the mind and the appetite -- from sole to soul.

Our journal question today we answered variously ("What's one thing that we've learned this year?") -- but Mariane really captured the essence of the hiker's heart with her observation that you can't put bananas in checked baggage.  It is, you see, the intent of the smart hiker to empty the fridge, pantry and countertops of perishables before setting out on a trekking journey.  And in the process we decide how to consume, freeze or pack our coffers before collecting our passports and heading out the door.  Mariane's banana, frozen in flight and defrosting into mush in her bag, seems a reminder of the silliness of the notion of absolute order and utility. The reality of the fruit turned goo reminded me of the eager proclamations of some of my clients: That just when they feel they have their ducks all in a row, the whole flock manages to run amok.

At the end of the day, ducks are ducks, bananas turn to goo and stuff happens.   It's life.  We count on our resourcefulness, determination and sense of humor to carry on . . . One step, one mile, one day at a time.  

Viva la Via Degli Dei

June 2, 2016

So, we're at it again.  After last year's damp and cool start in Scotland (and along bits of England's  Coast-to-Coast), the seduction of a drier, warmer hike was simply irresistible when planning time for the 2016 trek came around.  For that reason, we suppressed our previous chatter of a Slovenian Adventure for a return to Italy (or as Cliff calls it Eat-aly).  Our memories of our apres Haute Route visit to the Cinque Terre (the Italian Riviera) recalled the balmy climes, gracious hospitality and passion (yes passion) for food and wine that for us is Italy.

This year we'll walk what is known as the path of the gods (La Via Degli Dei) -- proceeding from a city renowned for its culinary tradition, Bologna (yes, birthplace of Bolognese Sauce and the original Bologna sausage) to the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance,  Florence.  The hiking itself covers (give or take) 100 miles over seven hiking days.  And recalling Seals and Crofts admonishment that  "we may never pass this way again," we'll take a few days on each end of the hike to explore the anchor cities.

9 lb Munro and my Italy Bag!

This year, thanks to Eagle Creek compression cubes, I'm traveling to Italy for two weeks of hiking with a carry-on bag the size of a gym bag.  OK, it's a little scary, but really, we hop inns every evening so no one except my travel companions (there are four of us) will detect my many repeat trail fashion statements.  And remember, I'm the same gal who wore one pair of trousers for 28 days on the Snowman Trek in Bhutan and who thought it a good idea to experience 30 days of (voluntary) cold showers last spring.  Let's just say comfort and style are not high on my list when there's an adventure to be had.

There are a couple of "tweaks" for the blog this year.  First of all, I have a new camera and so will be taking at least some of the blog photos myself.  Second, somewhere within each day's post, I'll log my response to an as-yet unrevealed question from my 5-Year Memory Journal for the days we travel.  Never heard of this journal?  Each page of the journal presents a new question (some amusing, some surprising, some deeply personal).  And each year (for five years), the journalist answers the same questions on the same days. This iterative process creates a retrospective map chronicling change.  Maybe you'll choose to join us on the trail by logging in with your own answers? Whatever you decide, we are glad to have you along!
 
See you on the trail soon!