On a rainy day, our guidebook warned us first off the steep muddy descent of the Passo Futa. If a misty day, the instructions further advised, skip the walk entirely and simply join one's luggage in a direct transport to the next village (Piero Sieve). So off we set in the mist and light rain from Macia, for the Passo (mountain pass) Osteria Bruciatta, our comprise to the warnings.
The Passo Osteria Bruciata has its own notorious claim (completely unrelated to weather) as the sight of an inn said to exist along this Tuscan route (sometime between 1300 -1500) where the inn keeper took to killing lodgers in their sleep. Beyond stealing the guests' money and belongings, the inn staff is said to habe used the flesh of their victims in meals prepared for other gusts. Whether true, or a Tuscan tall tale, the story is grotesque, and used the the reason for the inn's fiery ending so many years past.
Working map and trail instructions together, the mist was no worthy opponent to our navigation skills, nor did the rain-sodden, rocky trail (up and down) beat our nimble-footed determination to traverse our 21-kilometer walk. And as the Osteria no longer exists, we walked on with a notice of the place, and no notion that we may be, versus enjoy our dinner tonight.
Our first 15K were spent stepping lightly across rocks and dodging mud puddles, which often spanned the the width of the trail, along woodland tracks. When we finally cleared the woods, the mist continued to obscure the views, but brought sharply into focus the labor of a modern-day shephard, driving her stock forward from the dry cockpit of her Fiat coupe. Ah, the humble beginnings of formaggio!
After showers and wine, we now are tempted by the many delicious scents coming from the Tuscan kitchen at the Hotel Felicina (formerly a Medici property). It's our second night in the Tuscan Region -- having passed out of the Emilio Romagna yesterday. And while I already long for the frizzante of the Pignoletto of Emilio-Romagna, we all are ready to try the culinary wonders and fruits of the vine of the Mugello region tonight!
Buon appetito!
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