Closing Report -- The Final Two Days in Florence

June 14 & 15, 2016

As I sit at my computer back in PA, slightly jet-lagged, with the final load of post-hike laundry spinning in the clothes dryer, I am reminded again of the phenomenon of a sense of increased velocity as regards the passing of time in relation to one's age.  All that to say: How the heck can it be that the holiday is past?  In the history books, so to speak?

Well, there's actually ample research on just this question . . . and if you read to the end of today's blog, I'll share some of that with you -- but since you're more likely here to read about the end of the trip -- or to check out the photos, here goes:

On Tuesday, 14 June, we narrowed our focus from Tuscany to Florence -- birthplace of the Renaissance, by visiting three specific sites: Galleria dell'Accademia (with its most famous artifact, Michelangelo's David),  Il Duomo di Firenze (Florence Cathedral) and the Uffizi Gallery -- and expanding our exploration of the city in general.  We visited all three sites with local guides.  The best recommendation we can offer from this experience is to get to any of the sites as early in the day as possible.  We were in the second group at both the Accademia and the Duomo and had uninterrupted views to all each site holds.  The Uffizi we hit in the afternoon.  It was crowded and having a guide only frustrated the impact of the mob.  After about 45 minutes we parted ways with our guide and explored on our own (a good decision for us).

When I walked into the room where the original David is on display, I will confess to tearing up.  I

didn't anticipate the overwhelming emotion of seeing this great work.  Imagining a young Michelangelo discovering and revealing Goliath's conqueror in this magnificent single piece of white marble (for me) transcends words.

Brunelleschi's Dome from inside the Cathedral

The Duomo was equally awe inspiring, mostly for the architectural genius of the famous dome.  Still today architects convene to study the work and postulate how Brunelleschi's design was conceived and constructed in 15th Century.  It is truly a wonder.  Again, words (and photos I fear) cannot do it justice.

 The works of the Uffizi are simply too numerous to recount -- and include paintings by Leonardo Da'Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and Raphael.  What most impressed me?  Perhaps the inclusion of sculpture from 5 BC.  All together, these three sites (and Florence in general) express perfectly the Renaissance Movement and great advancements not only in the visual art but also in literature, mathematics, science, music and civilized culture based in curiosity and solution.  I was humbled by the beauty and the brilliance of the great works.

The altar at Santa Croce

Dinner Tuesday night was at Trattoria ZaZa (thanks again, Karen) where the gnocchi was a second to 4 Leoni, but the steak tartar was the best I've ever had!  ZaZa is a bit of an institution is downtown Florence, operating for nearly 40 years, it has an impressive footprint for both in and outdoor dining -- reservations are a must!

And on our last full day in the city, Wednesday, 15 June, we explored on our own beginning with the Santa Croce Basilica where one finds the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo and Machiavelli amidst amazing art and peaceful surrounds (this was one of the least visited sites we explored in the city proper -- and one of the most moving for us).


Not to be missed: At the back of the basilica one can find the Scuola del Cuoio (http://www.scuoladelcuoio.com/scuola-del-cuoio-about-us.html) -- "Scuola del Cuoio was created after World War II through the collaborative efforts of the Franciscan friars of the Monastery of Santa Croce and the Gori and Casini families, Florentine leather artisans since the 1930’s. Their mission was to give orphans of the war a means to learn a practical trade with which to earn a living"  Through agreement with the friars of Santa Croce and the city's leaders -- the school continues today.  The leather products there are beyond compare and guarantee authenticity (if you go to Florence, you may be overwhelmed by the leather vendors -- and it can be difficult to assess quality, value and authenticity).

At Boboli Garden

In the afternoon we headed for the Boboli Gardens south of the River Arno (another property built for the Medici Family).  The gardens are just behind the Pitti Palace, and seemed less well maintained than any other spot we visited in Florence.  The views of Florence from the garden, though, are spectacular.

For us, though, the real find of the day was Fort Belvedere (just continue through the gardens to get to the old fort), where an amazing contemporary art installation, Spiritual Guards by Belgian artist Jan Fabre, lured me into a photo frenzy that drained my camera battery.  I find Fabre's art thoughtful, whimsical, provocative and quite delightfully fascinating (but Cliff will remind you that I loved infinity pools filled with milk as a contemporary art installation in Stockholm years ago . . . ).  I included some snaps below, you can be the judge.

Our final dinner (a final thanks to Karen) was at Mama Gina's south of the Arno.  Here the gnocchi nudged out ZaZa's -- but no one could touch 4 Leoni (our 5-star award goes to 4 Leoni).  And the truth is, we never had a merely passable meal in Florence (or on the trail).  Food is, like art, a passion for the Italians.  If we American's routinely took our ingredient selection, preparation and presentation of food forward with the love and attention the Italians do -- I daresay we'd be a more healthful country.  Why squander a moment or a coin to simply fill one's belly when you can dine?

Now, for the passing of time.  This is such an oft observed phenomenon that it is unsurprising, I think, that there are many reflections and studies around the notion that the older we are, the more quickly time passes.  Here are a few ideas you can throw out the next time someone ponders the question in your presence (source: Scientific American):

1. We gauge time by memorable events.
As William James hypothesized, we may be measuring past intervals of time by the number of events that can be recalled in that period. Imagine a 40-something mom experiencing the repetitive, stressful daily grind work and family life. The abundant memories of her high school years (homecoming football games, prom, first car, first kiss, graduation) may, compared to now, seem like much longer than the mere four years that they were.
2. The amount of time passed relative to one’s age varies.
For a 5-year-old, one year is 20% of their entire life. For a 50-year-old, however, one year is only 2% of their life. This “ratio theory,” proposed by Janet in 1877, suggests that we are constantly comparing time intervals with the total amount of time we’ve already lived.
3. Our biological clock slows as we age.
With aging may come the slowing of some sort of internal pacemaker. Relative to the unstoppable clocks and calendars, external time suddenly appears to pass more quickly.
4. As we age, we pay less attention to time.
When you’re a kid on December 1, you’re faithfully counting down the days until Santa brings your favorite Hot Wheels down the chimney. When you’re an adult on December 1, you’re a little more focused on work, bills, family life, scheduling, deadlines, travel plans, Christmas shopping, and all of that other boring adult stuff. The more attention one focuses on tasks such as these, the less one will notice the passage of time.
5. Stress, stress, and more stress.
As concluded by Wittmann and Lehnhoff (and replicated by Friedman and Janssen), the feeling that there is not enough time to get things done may be reinterpreted as the feeling that time is passing too quickly. Even older individuals (who are, more often than not, retired from work) may continue to feel similarly due to physical handicaps or diminished cognitive ability.

While the feeling may be inescapable, appease yourself by knowing that time is not literally getting faster as you age.

But here's the thing: presence is being in the moment -- this moment -- that is passed before I can finish typing the words.  Travel and hiking in particular demand presence: Attention!  Take Notice!  Be here and aware!  Be mindful and learn!  We walk, because we can, because we are.  Thanks for walking with us again this year.

Next year's June adventure will take us back to England for the 261 miles of the Pennine Way (from south of London into Scotland).  See you then!

Italy stands with the US in mourning the victims of Pulse in Orlando

How I most often saw Cliff over the past two weeks