Nam-Tso and my Not-so Candid Camera Experience (11 June)

The vast waters of Nam-tso (a jewel-blue saltwater lake nearly 45 miles long, 20 miles at its widest point and reaching a depth of 115 feet) and the majestic mountains of the Nyenchen Tangha Range to the south (through which we have just passed), combine at Camp Four to create a wholly unpredictable climate showing the range of its emotions like an undisciplined child.  Note: the Tibetan word for lake is "tso." 

Nam-tso at dawn

Hiking the beach

Only this morning did we fully realize the extent of rainwater infiltration on our tent during our first night at Camp Four.  We are happy for a slow start and day to explore the lake area, clean up and dry out before heading back into the mountains tomorrow.  Camp Four also brings us back in proximity of a populated area, which includes not only herders and their herds (weaving their way through our camp), but also the light, noise and bustle of Chinese tourists heading to the circus-like attraction on the rim of Tashi Dor.  Overnight, Cliff wondered about the lights in the distance.  Late in the morning, we hike along the Nam-tso beach to discover the source.

Tashi Dor itself is another important destination for Tibetan pilgrims.  Tashi Dor, roughly

Tinsley shows off his inner-artist

TeamBoltz beach side

translated means something like auspicious obelisk/rock.  And the shapes of the rocks along this spit of land that juts into the southeast corner of the lake are what the site is all about.  To see these rocks, one must leave the populated area (glady) and head west along the lakefront.  The kora itself includes a hermit's cave, head washing station (spiritual practice), cave drawings, an enormous mani wall, and the expressive rock towers. 

It maybe should come as no surprise that we observed the Chinese tourists preferring the clutter and jumble of the rows of vendor tents and crude, sprawling restaurants to the beauty of the rocks beyond.  The crowded area, approaching the Tashi Dor kora, is a pulsing mass of litter and tourists -- dotted with horrid and smelly public toilets, which brings me to my not-so candid camera experience:  At Tashi Dor, when nature called, I was committed to my usual strategy for using a public toilet here, which is to get in and out as quickly as possible.  Think slit/squat trench, low walls separating holes (at least for women), no paper, maybe running water (maybe not) to sweep away individual deposits -- and how hard is it really to hit the target girls, really???   I've learned that being able to hold one's breath for long periods is a real boon to survival . . ..  So imagine my shock and disgust to realize the Chinese tourist next to me in the public toilet here was using her selfie-stick to capture her personal toilet experience!  For what?  Her Twitter or Instagram followers?  I am not making this up!  Really, whose imagination could make this (you know the deleted pun) *insert here* up?


Despite this craziness, we trust Gary that once we start our circuit on the Tashi-Dor kora the crowds will disappear.  And sure enough, almost like we passed through an invisible door only we can open, we leave behind the noise, stink and nonsense to walk and explore the kora alone.  

And here, the beauty of the Tashi Dor kora shines through the looming clouds and threatening skies over Nam-tso: 

Cave drawings

Mani wall

Beach of Cairns under stormy skies at Nam-tso

Mani wall detail

Rock w/ khatas and prayer flags

Returning to Camp Four late in the afternoon, we see the yak have arrived. Should we invite this one in for tea?  Butter tea, maybe?

Guest yak at our tent

And a note: We are getting used to the truth that the Tibetans seem as curious of us as we are of them.  Our own yak men have taken to watching us eat.  Children will cross long distances to stand or sit and stare at us as we pass.  And every time we establish camp anywhere near herders, they come to inspect with winning smiles and great curiosity.  Truly, is there any more universal language than a smile?

Curious observer

Sometimes your joy is the source of your smile, but sometimes your smile can be the source of your joy.  ~Thich Nhat Hanh