Over the Kyang-La (10 June)

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter.  ~Izaak Walton

At the top of Kyang-La (trekkers left, Gary center, staff right)

It’s our earliest start for our longest day so far (about 14 miles): Crossing the Kyang La (pass, 17,750 on our altimeters) then descending across the Changtang plains to Nam Tso (lake) and Tashi Dor .

TeamBoltz

Gary and Dharma

The ascent to the pass was fairly gradual — and only about 350 feet higher than our exploration hike the preceding day. Still, with stops to find oxygen (increasingly scarce at this altitude) to fill our greedy lungs, it took about three cross-tundra and boulder-hopping hours to reach the pass before noon. 

Tinsley and staff

The sky at the pass was crystal clear and gave way to glorious views going forward (toward Nam Tso) and looking back (over our rocky ascent).  At the Kyang-La pass our camp crew celebrated as much as we did with many gleeful photos and brilliant smiles. We all sent best prayers and energy to loved ones from the top of before heading down.

The yak passing me by

The Changtang Plains

On the downhill, our yaks and yak men passed us heading down to our lunchtime assembly area. Feeling brave at lunch (pumped with post-pass adrenaline no doubt), I asked our camp crew if I could try their tsampa.  Tsampa, a staple in Tibet, is roasted barley flour and yak butter mixed with something wet (water, tea, beer).  In the case of the staff, they poured water into a plastic bag with the tsampa and mixed it by squeezing the bag.  From the bag they pinched a palm full of the mixed product and rolled it into biscuit-sized dough balls.  I'm glad I tried it, but void of any seasoning and hand warmed, I can only imagine it is an acquired taste. 

Nam-tso in the distance

Because we'll be at the Nam-tso campsite for a couple of nights before rejoining our yak team -- they set off for the campsite after next as we continue our descent.  After a few breather breaks on the descent (really quite gradual when compared to other trekking descents in our lives) the skies began filling with clouds and temperatures plummeted.  At this point, I preferred the warmth of walking to breaks, and so kept moving.  Over the five-and-a-half hour downhill, three TeamBoltz' hours were break-free (passed with me wearing my headphones and walking in rhythm to my low-brow, happy pop tunes). 
  
We could see Camp Four (at 15,600') from a point just beyond where we had lunch (though it was still hours away).  Once we had it in our sites, Cliff and I found an easy companionable pace all the way into camp.  Along the way we saw pika, many birds and flowers, and sheep and yak tended by Tibetan herder families.  

Approaching Nam-tso Lake (another important pilgrimage for the Tibetans, which the Chinese have developed for Chinese tourists) we came upon a barbed-wire topped fence line.  Despite my determination to drive on, Cliff advised caution (did I really want to end up in a Chinese jail?).  We waited for Gary to catch up and confirm that we'd have to breach the physical barrier to reach camp.  The fence, seemingly arbitrary, was confusing -- to keep livestock (or people?) out or in.  Gary assured us the answer was yes (with a head-shaking smile) and definitely arbitrary. 

Arriving at Camp Four under threatening skies

It was another hour or so before we happily collapsed into our tent -- waiting for our fellow trekkers to arrive.  Once assembled, afternoon tea and wash water appeared. When we gathered for dinner that night we were three trekkers.  We learned from Gary that Chris would not continue the trek due to severe AMS symptoms suggesting early signs of high altitude cerebral edema (presenting with commonly associated symptoms of loss of appetite, fatigue and most concerning, altered mental state (confusion)).  Gary started her right away on a course of Dexamethasone.  In the case of AMS, although a strong steroid like Dexamthasone can address the symptoms, the only cure is to descend.  I hate the thought of saying goodbye Chris.  Not only is she the only other woman on the trek (I'm pretty used to being the only woman in the room), she's an uber-cool, no-drama chick with great life experience and exceptional resilience. 

Our dinner tonight (so hungry, so good) was cut short by an oncoming storm that capped our most rigorous day.  Ah, sweet sleep! 

And tonight, the tent leaked . . .