The Bear Went Over the Mountain (16 June)

The bear went over the mountain, The bear went over the mountain, The bear went over the mountain
To see what he could see

To see what he could see, To see what he could see

The other side of the mountain, The other side of the mountain, The other side of the mountain
Was all that he could see

~Children's song sung to the tune of For He's a Jolly Good Fellow (lyricist unknown) 

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Although we are not crossing the Sha Shing la (la = mountain pass) today, this children's tune is my "ear worm."  Whether from an oxygen-deprived brain or not, it's where the 100 billion or so neurons of my gray matter decide to find traction today.

Our tent surrounded by yaks, snow and mountains

It snowed in our little valley overnight and we awoke to a bitterly cold and rather gray morning. In preparation for tomorrow’s pass crossing, the planned activity for today is a boulder/rock hopping ascent to the mouth of one of the passes we will not take on our way back to Lhasa. This will be our final exploration hike in the Nyenchen Tangha Range before we do see the other side of the mountain(s).  

 

Gary assures me today is good training

Oh great, more rock hopping

More than any other day, this hike seems to tax my legs and get my heart pump quads screaming for oxygenated blood.  It is a boulder-hopping adventure that Gary assures me will help to prime the pump for tomorrow's ascent (oh, sure).  Understanding the DNA advantage of the Tibetans, I have to wonder how long it would take (if ever) for a foreigner to function at so high a fitness level at these altitudes. Although we are relatively quick and nimble (Cliff more so than I), we still arrive at each rest smiling but breathless.  And the rocks seem never to end.  For me boulder/rock hopping is a little like typing.  As long as I am just doing, with little thought, I pretty much cruise along.  It is my pause (to look at the keys or consider my path) that causes me to falter and break rhythm.  I'm sure there's a lesson here somewhere (probably about over-thinking things), but my child's-rhyme brain just can't bring it forward today.

 

Trekkers and Guide cold at the head of the pass not taken

Throughout the day we’ve experienced all the variance of high mountain weather: Wind, rain, sleet, snow and sunshine that seamlessly transition one to the other in the space of minutes.

Gary's poses a funny question to Cliff and me today: Do we sleep with a wall of bags and gear between us? I guess it's a fair question since we are the only tenting couple.  So, it may be interesting to share with you our tent logistics as trekking couple.  We’ve come to experience and understand that most trekkers (even married ones) trek without a partner . . .

Our tent is a two-person "Eureka!" tent.  Quite honestly, we believe this is the largest tent we ever have shared.  We line our duffels on either side of us, between our respective sleeping mats and tent walls -- creating a sort of double bed of mattress pads and sleeping bags in the middle.  Our packs, we lean against the head of our tent to create tension and keep the top wall from nudging our heads on rainy and/or windy nights.  Cliff strings a clothesline across the top of the tent (just below the ceiling if you will), which is where we dry the few items we hand wash most days (mostly underwear and handkerchiefs/bandanas), along with a small tent light and a catch bag for watches and headlamps. 

Cliff resting at the end of another trekking day

And what is the fascinating pillow talk of a trekking couple on day twelve of the trek?  The same thing it is on most nights beyond the first two or three:  What is the first meal you want when we get home?  I have a lot of ideas . . . but Cliff's craving is the one that sticks.  We want Chama burgers -- cooked rare, topped with bacon & blue cheese, with a side of truffle fries!!